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by : Atty. Algamar A. Latiph
BRILLIANT sunshine… refreshing coolness… and jewel-like lake,” the breathless foreigner exclaimed upon finally reaching Dansalan. It was 1925. And the descriptive narration of Dr. Albert Herre on his journey was immortalized in his catchy article “Lanao-Lovely Land of Romance” which appeared in The Scientific Monthly. A chronicle of his exploration of Lanao, his elations and appreciation of its beauty and, at time, epithets against the Maranao.
Mounting from the plains of Iligan, the perplexed scientist recalled a “family group of monkeys crossing the road” while he was passing through the “excellent automobile road ascends to the lake.” Today, the playful monkeys are replaced by man-made obstructions blocking the passing vehicles; they are zigzag check points guarded by Marines.
Dr. Herre’s destination was Camp Keithly, Dansalan. “Intriguing” extolled by the scientist upon reaching Dansalan and was “impressed by the wide open spaces and unobstructed view across the lake and beyond… then leaping over a few miles of intervening low land, one’s eyes rest upon the lofty volcanic peaks of Butig range.”
Few days later, he trekked Butig’s mountain. There, he was welcomed by its “great forest and its untrodden volcanic peaks that hide many botanical treasures as yet undiscovered.. deer…monkeys…gigantic pythons…monkey-eating eagle.” Climbing above, the “beautiful birds concealed in the world of light atop of the trees…and thrilled by rippling burst of song from some invisible bird.”
His words revealed the drifting spill of Lake Lanao en route to the heavenly arms of Agus. In his chronicle, I was able to glimpse Agus’ surreal nature “furiously rushing… races and roars, leaps and tosses madly in headlong sped to the sea.” After 82 years, Agus’ roars are gone. It was silenced by the concrete wall erected by Napocor. Likewise, Napocor’s artificial river in Pumping was built to further suck Lake Lanao which effectively tamed Agus’ furiousness. Now, what prevailed is Agus’ deafening stillness and exhaustion, and its dull exit towards the shore.
They were “unique and highly interesting fish fauna,” the scientist said of the lake’s 17 species which according to him was a “remarkable demonstration of evolution.” These species, however, are now slipping into extinction ironically not because of forces of nature but by man-made causes. Today, algae dominate Lanao’s lakeshore, our fishes are vanishing and soon will disappear before our eyes. Indeed, our lake is decaying.
Dr Herre never escaped Maranao’s artistry. Our houses, he described, were “notable for their unusual architectural decorations…walls are more or less artistically decorated…very elaborate and intricate curve.” He was fascinated by the remarkable brass making, “betel boxes…very unusual design and possessing real artistic merit.” The colorful malong, the agong, the okir and so on.
Witnessing a rido was probably not in his itinerary nonetheless he saw feuding clans disputing the sultanate throne. There were approximately 200 armed men assembled but despite of the height of the tensions his attention was on our craftsmanship, for him: “it was a great experience, for there was displayed the most wonderful aggregation of bladed weapons imaginable. Every man carried a kris and most of them had kampilan and daggers as well.”
There were “mixture of despotic authority and the most democratic freedom” he commented on our politics but the “social structure of the Maranao people is amazingly like that of our ancestors some generations removed.” They are “hair-trigger, clannish people, dirty ignorant” but he was quick to say of our “keen intelligence withal, hospitable but suspicious of outsiders, they have the faults and also the virtue of Gaelic clansman.” Their woman “takes her place in the community on a nearly equal footing with men.”
Lanao’s “reputation for ‘battle, murder and sudden death,’” is rather incorrect. “In reality it is a safe as cities in the United States.” For him, the coming of Islam “brought higher culture” to Maranaos who “were always a turbulent and independent breed,” they can be likened to “touchy Gaelic or Southern Appalachian clansmen.”
The scientist misjudged us from his conclusion that “few years more and the Maranao will become standardized in regular Filipino pattern, or else be exterminated.” But to a certain extent, the extinction of our culture and lake is not far from reality. Then was 1925, now is 2007 and our generation is witnessing the bleeding Lake Lanao, our dialect’s infrequent usage (might slowly lead to its demise), crimes and drugs are on alarming level, politics brought sufferings instead of good governance. Is this our version of evolution moving backward? I rather leave that question for all of us to ponder.
What I am certain of is that we do not lack good men and women of bright ideas and willingness to lend their hands, in fact we have plenty of them. We are a proud people; our heritage, our faith, our history bond us together that we can utilize to shape this generation and succeeding generations. Can we?
Latiph, former chairperson of the Manila-based Muslim Youth and Students Alliance, is a Chevening Fellow, University of Birmingham, United Kingdom.
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